Our baseline guarantee on all systems is to reduce radon below 1.9 pCi/L or below pending a physical walk through.
Midwest Radon Specialists prides itself in meticulously concealed radon mitigation systems. When conducting a visual inspection, we have two major considerations which help us to choose how we will route our radon system and where we will locate our suction point(s).
What will give us the lowest possible levels? We perform advanced diagnostics using Pressure Field Extension to help us assess the quantity of airflow underneath the basement slab before we begin drilling and routing your system.
Keeping the radon system tucked away, blended in, or completely out of sight is our specialty.
We are radon mitigation insured, certified through NRPP, and compliant with USEPA protocols and all Minnesota building codes that may apply. The system and materials are warrantied for 5 years. Warranties and Guarantees are transferable.
At Midwest Radon Specialists, we use Continuous Radon Monitors (CRM) to conduct radon tests. A test from a CRM requires a minimum of 48 hours, and it’s the only short-term test that allows homeowners and realtors to make a mitigation decision based on a single test. The test requires closed-building conditions, meaning windows on all levels and external doors are kept closed, for 12 hours prior to and during the measurement. This makes testing in Minnesota easier in the winter.
The CRM we use has 6 sensors that take (48) one hour readings, creates an itemized list, plots the data on a graph, and gives you a 48 hour average in pCi/L. It also includes data from air pressure, humidity and temperature sensors.
On average radon systems will cost between $1300 to $1,600. If the home requires extra sealing, multiple suction points, a crawlspace treatment, has old corroded duct work in the concrete slab etc, the price can go up.
We will drive up to an hour away (From St Louis Park) - but drives over 45 minutes away will have a trip charge added, as a 1 hour drive creates 6 man hours of driving when you include retrieving the radon test.
Each system is installed with a “U-Tube Manometer” on the system vent pipe. One side of the U-Tube has a vinyl tube that goes into the radon pipe. The suction created from the radon fan draws the oil up on one side of the U-Tube. The difference in height between the two oil levels indicates the suction in the pipe created by the radon fan, in units of inches of water column. If both oil columns are level, the fan is not running, and needs to be turned on or serviced. Please check your electrical panel to make sure a breaker is not tripped before making a service call
Our system will reduce your radon levels to 1.9 pCi/L or below.
We can approach the install from a scientific standpoint to reduce your levels to the lowest achievable levels possible from the active soil depressurization radon mitigation method, but due to certain circumstances this can be a huge can of worms to open.
For example, Imagine your home is sitting on clay, such bad clay you could basically blow a bubble with it, and your basement is entirely finished, except a small unfinished furnace room. You have no sump basin or drain tile. One suction point may reduce the levels to an acceptable level, but to reduce levels below 1 in this instance could involve multiple suction points in living space that you would probably later want to have a remodeler finish with framing/drywall etc. Also depending on the layout and foundation size, could involve having multiple systems installed on either side of the home.
Yes, the more bare the structure is, the more options we have for routing and hiding pipes. Although we have done it, we don’t like to route our systems up 2.4 walls because the dimensions are actually 1.5 x 3.5, exactly the size of the PVC pipe we use, and the radon fan can cause vibration through the drywall, making a noise we can’t muffle.
Festa. Because they’re German engineered motors, and fan charts will show you they out perform the rest of the radon fans.
Yes, any time the radon vent pipe penetrates a firewall.
When temperatures get to below 0 degrees fahrenheit the external systems can freeze up pretty easily, in general it tends to be less severe the 2nd year after it has worked out a lot of moisture, but some houses can continuously get saturated with moisture that the system pumps out, and when it’s cold enough they freeze up. The best temporary solution is disconnecting the top rubber coupler and allowing the system to exhaust at ground level until the temp reaches 15 degrees. At this point the system will thaw itself and return back to normal. You can leave it turned on and just let it be, it will fix itself, but if you’d like the system to be working while it’s -20 below, you may have to disconnect the top coupler so it can exhaust at ground level. Never unplug the radon system or the fan will freeze up and will need to be taken inside a warm place to thaw.